Don’t Drop the Chandelier, Temple Stream South Branch, 27 June 2011

Paul and I ventured into the Temple Stream South Branch in search of ice over the weekend.  Below is short report of what we found.

We pinned our hopes on the South Face of Peak 2200 which is just to the south of Steeple Peak. Our expectations were not high given the lack of snow, but cold temperatures over the past few days made us think we might get lucky.

The South Face of Peak 2200. Our route is on the left rock band.

We got our first glimpse of the south face on Sunday morning after two hours of scrub and scree bashing.  Initially it seemed that our effort was all in vain, but with the aid of Paul’s binoculars we spied something that looked feasible on the lower part of the face, close to where Paul had climbed a route previously.

We climbed the ice visible in the centre of the photo

We got to the base of the ice and despite water flowing over the rock in places it looked on. I took the lead and started swinging my tools for the first time in months. The first pitch was quickly dispatched and two more fun pitches followed. The crux was the middle pitch where two rock steps had to be negotiated via some precarious chandeliers. Paul managed to break one of these off, almost taking his ice tool with it.  He recovered but arrived at the belay rather animated! We named the route ‘Don’t Drop the Chandelier’ and graded it M5 WI4.

Me on the first crux of the middle pitch

A short movie of the climb is coming soon.


One response

  1. rory.

    bloody hell, nice one jamie. i shall keep an eye on your blog, congrats on the sponsership!

    July 1, 2011 at 11:23 am

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